A washer that won't start usually has a simple cause: no power reaching the machine, a door or lid that is not fully latched, or a control lock that is switched on. Check the outlet and breaker first, then close the door firmly and switch off the control lock.
This guide covers the checks in the order a technician would run them: power first, then the door or lid, then the controls. Most of the checks below take less than five minutes and need no tools. Anything that means opening the machine or touching wiring is flagged — stop there and call a technician instead.
What are the most common reasons a washer won't start?
A washer that will not start is almost always stopped by one of a short list of causes. The machine is either not getting power, it does not know the door or lid is closed, or a control setting is blocking the cycle. A failed part is possible, but it is the least common cause — check the simple ones first.
- No power reaching the machine — a tripped breaker, a tripped GFCI outlet, a loose plug, or a power cord that has worked free.
- Door or lid not fully latched — front loaders will not fill or spin until the door lock engages, and top loaders will not start until the lid switch closes.
- Control lock or child lock switched on — the panel lights up, but the start button does nothing.
- Water supply turned off — some machines will not start a cycle if they cannot fill, and will show an inlet error instead.
- Failed lid switch or door lock — the part that tells the control board the door is shut has worn out.
- Control board fault — the board is not sending the start signal. This is the least common cause and the one that needs a technician.
If your machine is a front loader and the door is the problem, our guide to washer door lock repair covers that fault in detail. For a machine that starts but never fills or drains, see our guide to washer not draining.
What safe checks can I try before calling a technician?
Work through these checks in order. Stop at any step that does not feel safe — never open the machine's casing or touch wiring while it is plugged in.
- Check the plug and the outlet. Push the plug firmly into the outlet. If the outlet is a GFCI type, press the reset button on it. Try another small appliance in the same outlet to confirm the outlet has power.
- Check the breaker. Open the breaker panel and look for the washer circuit. If the breaker has tripped, switch it fully off, then back on. If it trips again straight away, leave it off and call a technician — a breaker that keeps tripping points to a fault in the machine or the circuit.
- Close the door or lid firmly. On a front loader, push the door until you hear the lock click. On a top loader, close the lid fully and press down gently — if the lid feels loose or the hinge is bent, the lid switch may not be closing.
- Switch off the control lock. Look for a lock symbol on the panel, or a button marked with a key or a padlock. Hold it for three seconds — on most models the lock clears and the panel responds again. Check your manual for the exact button, as it varies by brand.
- Check the water taps. Make sure both the hot and cold taps behind the machine are fully open. A machine that cannot fill may refuse to start and show an inlet error instead.
- Power cycle the machine. Unplug the washer for five minutes, then plug it back in and try a short cycle. This clears a stuck control state on many models.
- Try a different cycle. Select a short or rinse-and-spin cycle and press start. If one cycle works and another does not, note which one — that detail helps a technician diagnose the fault.
If none of these checks brings the machine to life, the fault is most likely a failed lid switch, door lock, or control board. Those parts sit inside the machine, and replacing them means removing panels and testing live circuits — that is technician work.
When should I call a technician?
Call a technician when the safe checks above do not fix it, or straight away if you see any of these signs:
- A burning smell, scorch marks, or a melted plug or outlet — unplug the machine and do not use it again until it has been checked.
- The breaker trips every time you reset it.
- Water and electricity together — standing water in the drum with a machine that will not start, or water leaking from the machine.
- The same fault keeps coming back after a power cycle.
- The display shows an error code that does not clear, or the control panel is dead while the outlet has power.
When you call, it helps to have three details ready: the brand and model number (on a label inside the door or on the back of the machine), what the machine does when you press start, and any error code on the display. A technician can often tell from those three things whether the visit is a simple part swap or a control fault. We give a written quote before work starts, so you know the cost before anything is taken apart.
What do the FH, F5 and IE error codes mean?
Some washers show a code on the display when they refuse to start. These codes vary by brand and model — always check your manual for the exact meaning — but three codes come up often enough to know by sight:
- FH — inlet fault (Whirlpool and some Maytag models). The machine is not filling with water. Check that both taps are open and the inlet hoses are not kinked before anything else.
- F5 — lid lock fault (Whirlpool and some Maytag models). The machine cannot confirm the lid is locked, so it will not start. Check that the lid closes fully and nothing is caught in the latch.
- IE — inlet error (LG and Samsung models). The machine is not getting water. Check the taps, the inlet filters on the hoses, and the water pressure.
A code that clears after you fix the cause — a closed tap, a kinked hose — was a supply problem, not a machine problem. A code that stays after the checks above points to a failed inlet valve, lid lock, or sensor. Error codes are covered in full in our next guide, which walks through the most common washer error codes and what each one means.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my washer not turning on?
The most common reasons are no power reaching the machine, a door or lid that is not fully latched, or a control lock that is switched on. Check the outlet and the breaker first, then close the door firmly and switch off the control lock. If the display is lit but the machine does nothing, the lid switch or door lock is the likely fault.
How do I reset my washing machine?
Unplug the washer for about five minutes, then plug it back in and try a short cycle. That clears a stuck control state on most models. Some machines also have a reset sequence on the panel — check the manual that came with your machine, as the steps vary by brand and model.
Why won't my washer start after I press the start button?
If the panel lights up but pressing start does nothing, the machine usually cannot confirm the door or lid is closed, or the control lock is on. Close the door or lid firmly until you hear the lock click, switch off the control lock, and try again. If it still does nothing, the lid switch or door lock has likely failed.
Can a tripped breaker stop my washer from starting?
Yes. A tripped breaker cuts power to the whole circuit, so the washer is completely dead — no lights, no display. Reset the breaker by switching it fully off, then back on. If it trips again straight away, leave it off and call a technician, as a breaker that keeps tripping points to a fault in the machine or the circuit.
Is it worth repairing a washer that won't start?
It depends on the cause. A latch, lid switch, or supply problem is usually a straightforward repair. If the control board has failed on an older machine, compare the written repair quote with the cost of a replacement before deciding. Get the quote first — we give a written quote before work starts, so you can decide with the real number in front of you.